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Brick Paver Driveway Cleaning, Re-Sanding, and Sealing: The Full Process

A brick paver driveway is one of the better investments a Jersey Shore homeowner can make in curb appeal, but it is also one of the hardest-working surfaces on the property. Unlike a paver patio that mostly deals with foot traffic and the occasional patio set, a driveway absorbs the weight of every vehicle that rolls over it, day after day. Restoring one properly is not just a matter of blasting it with a pressure washer and calling it done. There is a specific order of operations, and skipping a step or doing them out of sequence can shorten the life of the work significantly.

Here is the full process, in the order it actually needs to happen.

Why Paver Driveways Take More Abuse Than Patios

Vehicle weight is the big difference. Every time a car turns into or out of a driveway, the tires put lateral pressure on the pavers, which gradually works joint sand loose in a way that simple foot traffic never does. Add in oil drips, transmission fluid, and the grit and road salt that tires track in from the street, and a driveway accumulates staining and wear far faster than a patio tucked in the backyard.

Homeowners in Point Pleasant and nearby towns like Brick and Toms River also deal with sandy soil that migrates onto driveways from landscaping beds and unpaved shoulders, plus the humidity and salt air that accelerate algae growth on any hardscape near the coast. A driveway that looked freshly installed two summers ago can look tired and dark today, and the pavers themselves are usually fine underneath. It is the surface layer and the joints that need attention.

Step One: Cleaning the Pavers

Everything starts with a thorough cleaning, and this step alone solves most of the visible problem. Professional-grade cleaning solutions are applied first to break down the algae, mold, and dirt bonded to the paver surface, the same buildup we cover in our post on why pavers turn black. After the solution has time to work, the surface is rinsed with pressure calibrated for the paver material, high enough to lift years of grime but controlled enough that it does not erode the paver face or blast out sound joint sand unnecessarily.

Oil and rust stains often need separate spot treatment during this step, since standard cleaning solutions are not always enough to fully lift petroleum stains. If your driveway has visible drip stains from a parked car, that is worth calling out before the cleaning begins so it can be addressed directly rather than assumed to be regular dirt.

Once the driveway is clean, it needs to dry completely before moving to the next step. This usually takes a day or two depending on temperature, humidity, and sun exposure.

Step Two: Re-Sanding the Joints

Not every driveway needs this step, but many do. If you can see visible gaps between pavers, notice individual pavers rocking underfoot or under tire weight, or see weeds growing between joints, the sand that locks the pavers together has eroded and needs to be replaced.

Polymeric sand is the standard choice for this job. Unlike regular joint sand, it contains a binding agent that hardens when it gets wet, which makes it far more resistant to washing out from rain, sprinklers, and the pressure of tires turning on the surface. The process involves sweeping new sand into every joint until it is fully packed, removing the excess from the paver faces, then applying a light, controlled misting of water that activates the binder without washing the sand back out of the joints. That activated sand needs time to cure, typically a full day, before the surface sees any more moisture or foot traffic.

This step matters more than most homeowners realize. Joints without solid sand allow pavers to shift under vehicle weight, which leads to uneven settling, cracked pavers, and drainage problems over time. A driveway with fresh sand in tight joints simply holds up better.

Step Three: Sealing

Sealing is the final step, and it only works correctly when it goes on top of a clean, dry, properly sanded surface. Sealant applied over dirty pavers locks in the staining and biological growth underneath it. Sealant applied before joint sand has fully cured can trap moisture and leave a cloudy or uneven finish.

A quality sealant creates a protective layer that makes it significantly harder for algae and mildew to take hold, helps the joint sand stay put longer, and protects against new oil and tire staining. Along the Jersey Shore, where salt air and humidity are constant, a sealed driveway typically stays cleaner for two to three times as long as an unsealed one. Homeowners can choose between a film-forming sealant that adds a noticeable sheen and richer color, or a penetrating sealant that protects without changing the look of the pavers. Full curing before vehicle traffic resumes is essential, so plan around a few days without using the driveway.

How Often to Repeat the Process

Cleaning is the step most driveways need on a recurring basis, ideally once a year for shore properties given how quickly algae and salt film return. Re-sanding is only needed every few years, or sooner if a harsh winter or heavy vehicle use has visibly displaced the joints. Sealing typically needs to be refreshed every two to three years, though a well-maintained, consistently cleaned driveway can sometimes stretch that interval further.

DIY vs. Professional

Each of these steps can technically be done by a homeowner, but the margin for error adds up. A consumer pressure washer can strip too much sand or etch the paver surface. Polymeric sand applied incorrectly, without full removal of excess sand from the paver faces or with too much water during activation, can leave a hazy residue that is difficult to remove. Sealant applied before the surface is truly ready is one of the most common and hardest to fix mistakes homeowners make.

A professional driveway and paver cleaning service handles all three steps in the right sequence with the right materials, which is usually the difference between a driveway that looks great for a season and one that holds up for years.

If your paver driveway needs cleaning, re-sanding, sealing, or all three, give Carmine a call to talk through what your driveway actually needs.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to re-sand my paver driveway every time it is cleaned?

No. Re-sanding is only necessary when the joint sand has visibly eroded, meaning you can see gaps between the pavers or individual pavers have started to shift. A driveway with intact joint sand only needs cleaning and, if it is due, a fresh coat of sealant. Most driveways need a full re-sand every few years, not annually.

How long after cleaning can I seal my paver driveway?

The pavers need to be completely dry before sealant goes down, which usually means waiting 24 to 48 hours after pressure washing depending on weather. If you are also re-sanding, the polymeric sand needs to cure first, so the typical order is clean, let dry, sand the joints, activate the sand with a light misting, let that cure, then seal.

Can I drive on my paver driveway right after sealing?

Most sealants need at least 24 hours before foot traffic and 48 to 72 hours before you drive a vehicle on the surface, longer in cooler or more humid weather. Sealing too early or driving on it too soon can leave tire marks or an uneven finish that has to be corrected.

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